Types of Samples in Fashion. One Question per Sample, from Proto to TOP.

The main types of samples in fashion are proto samples, fit samples, size set samples, salesman samples, pre-production (PP) samples and top of production (TOP) samples. Each one is made at a different stage of development and answers a different question, from "does the design work?" to "is bulk production right?" Alongside them, brands approve lab dips, strike-offs and trims for colour and materials.

Each round means making a sample, shipping it, reviewing it and sending comments back, so sampling is where most development time goes. When you know what each sample is for, you ask the right question at the right time and skip the extra rounds.

A garment can go wrong in many ways: the design, the fit, the grading, the colour, the materials or the factory's production methods. You cannot check all of that in one sample, because the real fabric, trims and production line are often not ready early on.

So each sample checks what can be checked at that stage. Think of it as a series of gates, each with one question. Skipping a gate saves a few days, but the problem then shows up in bulk, where it costs far more to fix.

Proto sample. The first physical version of a style (prototype), made from the first tech pack. The factory may use substitute fabric and trims if the real ones are not ready. The proto checks the design idea: proportions, construction, details and whether the style can be made at the target cost. Expect changes after the proto. That is its job.

Fit sample. Made in the base size and tried on a fit model to see how the garment sits on a body. The team measures it against the spec sheet and records fit comments. Most styles go through more than one round, often called first fit, second fit and so on, until the fit is approved. Our guide to size grading and spec sheets explains base sizes, points of measure and tolerances.

Size set sample. One sample in each size, or in a selection of sizes, made after the base size fit is approved. It checks that grading works, so the smallest and largest sizes fit as well as the base. Grading problems missed here usually appear in bulk.

Salesman sample. Also called a sales sample or SMS, it is made for selling, not for fit. It uses final or close-to-final fabric and colours, for photography, showrooms, trade shows and buyer meetings. Brands often order several of each style, so every sales agent or region has a set. The photos often end up on the season's line sheet.

Pre-production (PP) sample. Made with the actual bulk fabric, trims and labels, using the methods the factory will use for bulk. It is the final approval before bulk starts. Once approved, it becomes the reference your quality team checks bulk against, so keep a signed sample on both sides.

TOP sample. Top of production: taken from the first pieces off the line. It confirms that bulk matches the approved PP sample in fit, colour, materials, workmanship and labelling. If something is wrong, it can still be fixed before the whole order is made. Some brands also ask for shipment samples, taken from the finished, packed order.

These approvals usually run alongside the garment samples:

The proto went out from an incomplete tech pack, so every round fixed something that could have been in the spec from the start.

Send a complete tech pack before the proto. Missing details turn into extra rounds.

The comments were vague, such as "pocket looks low", so two offices read them two different ways.

Write specific comments: "Raise the pocket 1 cm." Add a photo with a markup.

The spec was updated on a laptop and in an email, so the factory never saw the new version.

Keep one version of the truth, and record which version of the spec each sample was made from.

Nobody owned it and nobody set a date, so it waited on a desk.

Give every sample a due date and an owner, and track it per style, not in email threads.

Imagine Sara, who runs development at a small menswear brand. For example, this is how one oxford shirt moves through sampling:

At every step, Sara records the comments, the spec version the sample was made from, and the date. Nothing here needs a bigger team. It needs every sample in one place.

If you make a handful of repeat styles with one factory you know well, you may not need every one of these samples. Agree with your supplier which ones you will skip, and write it down.

Polluxa PLM is product lifecycle management software for fashion, footwear, beauty, consumer goods and manufacturing brands. Our PLM software for fashion and consumer brands keeps every sample, comment and approval on one shared product record.

To see where sampling sits in the full product lifecycle, read our guide to what PLM is.

When you want to see sampling on your own styles, book a demo.

A proto sample checks the design and construction, often in substitute materials. A fit sample checks how the garment fits a body in the base size, measured against the spec sheet.

A PP (pre-production) sample is made with the real bulk fabric, trims and labels, using production methods. It is the last approval before bulk production starts, and becomes the quality reference for bulk.

TOP stands for top of production. It is a sample taken from the first pieces of bulk production to confirm they match the approved PP sample.

A salesman sample is made in final or near-final fabric and colours for selling. Sales teams use it for photography, showrooms, trade shows and meetings with buyers.

There is no fixed number. Simple repeat styles may need very few rounds, while new or technical styles need more. A complete tech pack and clear comments are the most reliable ways to cut rounds.